I initially planned to spend just a couple of days in Sarajevo, explore the highlights, and head to Croatia which I thought would be the best country in the Balkans (spoiler:Croatia is nice, but in my opinion, Bosnia is by far the best country in the region).
However, I enjoyed the city so much that I extended my stay for several more days. Even that wasn’t enough ultimately, and I ended up returning a couple of years later to spend a month in what had quickly become one of my favourite cities in Europe.
If you’re torn between visiting somewhere in Europe and somewhere with more of a Middle Eastern vibe, then Sarajevo hits the sweet spot. You can feel the best of both worlds, which are separated (quite literally) with a line on the ground, known as the “Meeting of Cultures”.
I love how Sarajevo is a peaceful city with a very safe feel and locals who, despite their stoic appearance, wouldn’t hesitate to help a tourist in need. Which is exactly what they did during my awkward attempt to send a letter back to the UK despite speaking as little Bosnian as the post office lady spoke English.
It also has some really fun hill walks with great views of the city from above, minus the large crowds of tourists you can expect to find in Paris, Rome, or Athens.
Understanding Sarajevo – some crucial context
Sarajevo has a rich history as part of the Ottoman Empire, which is visible when you visit the bustling bazaars of Baščaršija, complete with a Turkish-style mosque.
This is a stark contrast to Marijin Dvor, home to two large shopping malls and the bus and train stations, which is full of Austro-Hungarian architecture instead.
If you walked from Vienna to Istanbul, it would take at least 14 days of non-stop walking. The contrast of cultures in Sarajevo allows you to feel like you’re doing this with just a few minutes separating such different architectural styles and experiences.
I love the feel of the place due to the strong Middle-East-meets-Europe vibe. And I’ll never get bored of the call to prayer blaring out from the local mosques multiple times a day.
For sports fans, there’s also a bit of history here, as Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, and some relics remain today such as a cool abandoned bobsled track in the hills surrounding the city.
Unfortunately, Sarajevo is a city best known for negative reasons.
The 1914 assassination of Austro-Hungarian Archduke Franz Ferdinand was the flashpoint that started World War I.
Whilst more recently, the city was under siege for 4 years by troops from the Republika Srpska in the early 1990s, as they were desperate to prevent Bosnia from successfully becoming an independent state following its declaration of independence from Yugoslavia.
Today you can still see reminders of what happened here. There are numerous holes in the ground which were created by mortar fire, and later filled in with red resin, these are known as the Sarajevo roses. There are around 200 of them, and each marks a spot where 3+ people were killed during the siege.
They aren’t the only visible reminder of what happened. Many old buildings are full of bullet holes and mortar damage. If you walk just away from the most populated areas, then it won’t take long to find evidence of this. There are a fair few alongside the River Miljacka, which was seen as the frontline during the siege.
Tensions still remain between the three main ethnic groups in the country, the Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats.
Most Serbs in Bosnia now live in the predominantly Serbian part of the country, known as Republika Srpska. Most Bosniaks and Croats live outside of Republika Srpska, and the majority of people from within all three ethnic groups will generally mix only with others from the same group.
It’s unfortunate that Sarajevo is often tied to these events, because it is also a city with many positives to offer. I love the Turkish influences, the hearty Bosnian cuisine, the scenic viewpoints and the fact that Sarajevo is so affordable.
I came back to spend a few weeks in Bosnia’s capital as it’s one of my favourite cities in Europe.
Here I will share some tips to help you see why Sarajevo is truly worth visiting.
Facts you need to know before visiting
- Officially Bosnia has three languages (Bosnian, Serb and Croat), but English is widely spoken in Sarajevo, therefore you shouldn’t have any problems with the language barrier.
- The currency is the Bosnian mark (KM), which was pegged to the Deutsche mark up until Germany adopted the euro. Today Bosnian marks are pegged to the euro instead at a rate of €1 = 2KM
- Bosnia is still a mostly cash-based society, although it has slowly started to accept cards more than it did when I first visited in 2023. As the capital, Sarajevo offers more opportunities to use card payments than elsewhere, however you should still have some cash as there are still a fair few places that do still rely on it.
- Bosnia is one of Europe’s cheapest countries. With the possible exception of Russia, I’ve been to every budget-friendly European country. I would say the 5 cheapest are Kosovo, Moldova, Albania, Belarus and Bosnia. Even as the capital, Sarajevo is very affordable. Expect to pay an absolute maximum of 14 KM/8USD for lunch, which often means cevapi (sausage-like minced meat in flatbread with onions), widely viewed as Bosnia’s national dish. A coffee costs around 2KM/1USD in local spots, and double that in touristy areas. Accommodation in Sarajevo starts from around 22 KM/13USD per person per night.
What to do in Sarajevo
Sarajevo is a cool city with plenty to see and do, and it’s also a great base for exploring other parts of Bosnia. Let’s have a look at some of the most interesting activities the city has to offer.
Take a War Tour
Unfortunately, we cannot ignore the war here. Although we can learn about it from locals who lived through it. And that’s a very interesting thing to do.
We took the War Scars & Sarajevo Today Free Tour with Neno & Merima on Guruwalk, and Merima showed us around for two hours. We learned a lot about the Siege of Sarajevo and how people survived 4 years being targeted by mortars and snipers.
We saw the hospital that was bombed multiple times, the government buildings that were attacked marking the start of the war, the hills from where the snipers were based, and a lot of the damage that’s still visible today.
Heads-up: One of the best things to do in any city is a walking tour with a local who knows the place inside out. But with the recent war history, Sarajevo is even more fascinating to visit and learn about the recent past.
Join this free Guruwalk tour to see Sarajevo’s Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian squares, the very spot where World War I began, and hear first-hand stories from the city’s siege.
Explore the Ottoman Bazaar
On a lighter note, Baščaršija is home to an incredible bazaar that feels far more Middle Eastern than European. You can find Bosnian coppersmiths forging metal wares including plates and bookmarks.
Some stalls sell typically Arabian fanous lanterns, which originated in Egypt before spreading across the Muslim world.
Baščaršija, the historic Ottoman-era bazaar in the heart of Sarajevo 
Crafted with worn wood and classic Bosnian design 
Baščaršija’s copper workshops
They’re particularly popular during Ramadan, and Bosnia is a country with a Muslim majority population, therefore you can expect to see many of them at this time of year. Others offer fresh pomegranate juice, which is a particular Bosnian favourite.
If you want Iranian carpets, they can be found too. However they take a long time to make, and with many Bosnians pursuing opportunities abroad, craftsmanship is a dying skill which makes such items increasingly rare.
Spend time at Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque
The Ottoman Empire fell in 1922, but Bosnia has retained many aspects of it today. Within the bazaar, you can find the Gazi Husrev-Beg mosque, which is the most important Islamic place of worship in the entire country.
You can visit the mosque for 3 KM/2USD from 9:00-12:00, 14:30-16:00 (outside of Ramadan only) and 17:30-19:00 between April and October. During other times of the year it is only possible to access from 9:00-11:00.
Outside of these times, it is only possible to visit for prayers.
Tuck into Cevapi in the Old Town
Bosnian (and in fact Balkan) cuisine is some of the most underrated in Europe. You cannot spend time in Sarajevo without encountering the popular dish cevapi.
Cevapi consists of grilled minced meat served in the shape of mini sausages and tucked inside a large slab of flatbread. It is generally served with onions, and sometimes with a slightly sour cheese-like cream called kajmak, and a spicy pepper-based sauce called avjar, which is a local favourite amongst much of the Balkans.
Inat Kuca on the Miljacka River serves traditional Bosnian cuisine, with cevapi a must-try
In the bazaar you will find many ćevabdžinicas selling this dish in small restaurants that generally have both indoor and outdoor dining options.
Hike or take a cable car up Trebević Mountain
Trebević Mountain is what you see rising up behind the city. And whilst it might not quite be Everest, it’s still an interesting spot to explore. You can hike for around 1.5 hours from the old town to reach some great viewpoints overlooking the city.
The abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics
But the main attraction here is an abandoned bobsled track that was used in the 1984 Winter Olympics which were held in Sarajevo.
The track is now defunct and covered in graffiti, but I still find it fun to see this relic left behind from such a significant sporting event. One which puts Sarajevo on the map for more positive reasons.
If you don’t fancy walking, it is possible to take a cable car up for 15 KM/9USD (one-way) or 20 KM/12USD (return). Under 7s can enter for free. The entry point for the cable car is in Bistrik, just south of the river.
cable car trip to Trebevic Mountain
Visit War Museums
Like any major city, Sarajevo has its fair share of museums. And given its significance here, war is a common theme.
To learn more about the tragedies of the past, you can visit any of the following:
- Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina: Covers broad aspects of Bosnia’s post-1945 existence, with a strong emphasis on the war. Entry: 10 KM/6USD.
- War Childhood Museum: A place that focuses on how children were impacted by the war, and shares many of their stories. Entry: 10 KM/6USD.
- Tunnel of Salvation (Sarajevo Tunnel Museum): A section of the tunnel used to smuggle in supplies during the siege. You can learn all about the role it played in the war. Entry: 20 KM/12USD.
- Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina: Unlike the others, this one focuses on WWII and more specifically the Holocaust. It also covers other aspects of Jewish history within the city. Entry: 5 KM/3USD.
- Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide: A place sharing stories of victims, footage from the Srbrenica genocide, and many artifacts from this atrocity. Entry: 18 KM/11USD (30 if combined with a Siege of Sarajevo Museum ticket).
- Siege of Sarajevo Museum: Stories and artifacts from the 4-year siege during which residents were trapped in Sarajevo surrounded by constant sniper and mortar fire. Entry: 18 KM/11USD (30 if combined with a Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide ticket).
War Tunnel Museum
Visiting these museums can be pretty harrowing, therefore you may want to focus on just a few rather than all of them.
I’d recommend getting the 30 KM/18USD ticket to both the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide Museum as well as the Siege of Sarajevo Museum. These two together really go in depth and give you a great understanding of how Bosnians lived during the war.
If you want to learn more, the Tunnel of Salvation offers a different perspective, as this is a real location that played a real part in the siege rather than just being a place of learning like other museums.
Go to the Latin Bridge where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated
On June 28th 1914, Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie were shot dead in Sarajevo by a Bosnian Serb called Gavrilo Princip, who saw them as a threat to the unification of Bosnia and Serbia.
This event was the flashpoint that led to WWI beginning with over 17 million deaths occurring as a result. So yeah, this was a pretty significant event.
(DepositPhotos/selenar)
It took place just around the corner from the Latin Bridge, which was known as “Princip’s Bridge” during the days of Bosnia being part of Yugoslavia.
Today, there is a plaque with a slab below it that has two footprints marking the exact spot where Princip carried out the assassination. It’s pretty interesting to come here yourself and think about the impact this tiny corner of such a wonderful city had on the course of history.
Get a Feel For The Yugoslavian Days at Café Tito
Up until the early 1990s, Bosnia was part of Yugoslavia which was very much within Europe’s Communist Bloc.
Some older people are still pretty nostalgic about the communist era, and one place where you can get a feel for the old days is Café Tito, named after the popular Yugoslav leader whose death marked the beginning of the end for the country that later split into several states including Bosnia.
The café is full of old memorabilia including communist posters, and even weapons. There are also some tanks outside which kids love to climb on. The drinks are a little overpriced, but coming here is more about the atmosphere than anything else.
Where to stay in Sarajevo
Sarajevo is pretty affordable all-round. Of course, you can splash out on a fancy hotel if you wish, but there aren’t any parts of the city that don’t accommodate to lower budgets.
Baščaršija
The old town which is where most of the activity takes place is located here.
Stay here if you want to be right at the heart of Sarajevo’s thriving markets and restaurants. If you fancy nipping out for some ćevapi or a traditional Bosnian coffee, then this is the perfect location for you.
The downside is that it can get a bit noisy, as Muvekita and the surrounding streets are among the busiest areas (especially when it comes to bars.) The party starts early here, so don’t be surprised if loud music is blasting by 7 pm. But for convenience, this neighbourhood cannot be topped.
Bistrik
If you don’t want to stay bang in the centre of the action, but you still want to be close to everything, then Bistrik is the neighbourhood for you. It is located just south of Baščaršija, just across the bridges over the River Miljacka.
The only downside is that there are only a handful of places to stay down here, so I would recommend booking in advance if you want to get a good spot away from the noise across the river.
Ilidza
Now this spot is well away from the old town. We’re talking a 2-hour walk, or 1 hour on public transport. But if your flight arrives or leaves at a tricky time, then this would be the most convenient place for you to stay for one night. It is also generally cheaper than it would be to stay around the centre.
I won’t pretend this would be my top recommendation for an accommodation spot in Sarajevo. There’s nothing to do here, and the sole reason for staying in this spot is for airport access.
When is the best time to visit?
Bosnia remains very much under the radar amongst the average holidaymaker (although I doubt it will remain that way for long).
This means that it avoids the crazy crowds that the likes of Italy and France receive during peak seasons, which makes Sarajevo an enjoyable experience even in the summer.
Still, the best time to go is during the shoulder season which generally runs from April-May and September-October where you will have warm weather, marginally cheaper accommodation, and slightly smaller crowds.
Despite that, I went in March during my first visit and whilst it was still a little on the cool side, the sun was out more often than not and it was still very enjoyable.
June and July are peak months, but still good for visiting Sarajevo. My second trip here was between July and August.
I would be wary of visiting in August however. This is because the annual Sarajevo Film Festival takes place for a week during this month, and that is the one time of year that accommodation prices do spike as film fanatics descend on the city.
If you don’t mind cold weather, then November is when it starts to get chilly, although it isn’t unbearable. Temperatures are around the 3-10°C mark, similar to the UK and slightly cooler than New York City at this time of year.
December to February are the coldest months. Sure, cheap accommodation will be easy to find at this time, but sitting outside eating ćevapi won’t be the pleasant dining experience that it is during the sunny months.
How to get to Sarajevo
The city is accessible in several ways, with the train being the best option for its scenic, postcard-worthy routes—especially the popular journey from Mostar through river canyons and mountains. Buses also offer good connections across the Balkans and Europe, often with modern amenities. Check out all the options here:
The airport isn’t a major international hub, however it does connect Bosnia with a few countries from both Europe and the Middle East.
Coming from Europe you can fly directly from the likes of Spain, France, Italy, the UK, Belgium, Germany, Croatia, Sweden, Switzerland, Denmark, Norway, Austria, Serbia and Poland.
If you’re arriving from further East, then Turkey, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait, Oman, Egypt and the UAE all have flights coming here. From any other countries, you will need to transit through one of these to visit Sarajevo.
Some operations are seasonal, so be sure to check schedules before you plan your trip.
Sarajevo is connected by two train routes. The most popular one is from Mostar, a scenic city that looks like something straight out of a postcard and should absolutely be on your Bosnia itinerary.
The train winds along a river canyon before crossing over green mountains. This makes it one of the most picturesque train rides in Europe, with some incredible views.
The train costs 14.10 KM/8.48USD for a one-way ticket, or 22.60 KM/13.59USD if you plan on going back in the same direction within 6 days. It takes around 2 hours, which makes it quicker than the bus.
In the summer, the route from Mostar begins in Ploče, Croatia. The dates that this extension runs between vary slightly each year, but it is generally from late June until the end of August.
The other train route runs from Maglaj in the north, with tickets costing 15.6 KM for a one-way adult ticket, and a return costing 25 KM/15USD.
It is also possible to take indirect trains from further afield. There are several lines running from Croatia, Serbia and through northern Bosnia, including Banja Luka which is another major city.
Trains are fairly old-school, but they do at least have a lot of legroom and charging sockets. Don’t expect Wi-Fi though.
Centrotrans runs several national and international buses that end up in Sarajevo.
From abroad they go from Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, France, Turkey, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, Switzerland, Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro and North Macedonia.
They’re a little more glossy than the trains and often have Wi-Fi, although the toilet is best avoided as you get near to Sarajevo, especially from the more distant locations…
From within Bosnia you can find buses from just about every city and medium-to-large sized town. Some may require a connection, but they aren’t too expensive. You can book your rides on 12go.
I recently arrived on a bus from Vienna to Sarajevo. It arrived earlier than expected and the whole journey including the border crossing was very easy.
My only complaint would be that we stopped at a bar, but not a convenience store on the way, which left many people without water during a long trip.
Carpooling is where you find someone driving to Sarajevo (or elsewhere) and split costs to travel for cheap.
The app BlaBlaCar can be used for this, although rides within Bosnia are rare, therefore you’d be lucky to find one.
However, if you join the Facebook group “Trazim Nudim Prevoz” then you will find drivers looking to share costs, and you may be able to find a budget-friendly route into the capital. Although they can be slow to accept new members to the group, and it’s generally used by locals, therefore you may need to use translate unless you speak the local language.
How to get around Sarajevo
The city is quite walkable, though taxis are available but can be unreliable. Getting around is easiest by tram or trolleybus, which connect major sites including the airport, stations, and old town. You’ll find all the details here:
There are multiple trams and trolleybuses that connect key locations such as Ilidža (the airport), the train/bus station (which are virtually next to each other) and the old town of Baščaršija.
Tickets can be bought from kiosks (1.60 KM/0.96USD) or directly from the driver (1.80 KM/1.08USD). They can be used for one journey and must be validated on board.
In all honesty, there’s no need to take buses in Sarajevo unless you live in a remote neighbourhood far from the centre.
If you do however, download the app “Centrocard” to see all the routes. The trip planning function barely works though, and the app overall is pretty clunky, which can make it frustrating to use. Buses within the city cost similar prices to the trams.
Sarajevo is pretty walkable, so unless you arrive in the middle of the night, you won’t need a taxi. However, if you do need one, avoid Sarajevo Taxis. They are notorious for scams.
Unfortunately, other companies aren’t 100% reliable, and with no Uber (or equivalent) there isn’t a good option here. Zuti Taxis are one of the better options amongst a bad bunch.
Whilst there is a taxi app (Holand), you require a Bosnian phone number to use it, which makes it useless to most tourists.
Where to go next
Sarajevo is amazing, but Bosnia has some other incredible places worth checking out before you head home.
Mostar
Stari Most spanning the Neretva River 
The Old Bazaar in Mostar
Mostar is one of my favourite cities in Europe by far. It’s absolutely beautiful, with the Neretva River winding through the centre of the city, which is also surrounded by mountains.
The best part of the city is around Stari Most, a bridge famous for attracting divers who plunge into the river below, much to the delight of onlooking visitors.
There’s another Ottoman-style bazaar nearby, and several restaurants selling delicious and affordable Bosnian cuisine.
Banja Luka
Banja Luka, the capital of Republika Srpska, a large region of Bosnia which is home to the majority of its Serb population.
Like Sarajevo, Banja Luka has a lot of Ottoman influences.
Unlike Sarajevo, Banja Luka is a Serb-majority city where you can learn about the war from a different perspective.
There’s even a Museum of Republika Srpska, which tells the history in a completely different way to what you’ll find in the capital.